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A major issue that many overlook is if your contacts keep sticking is the capacitor on the pump is failing or failed.  The capacitor prevents arcing of the points and improves the efficiency of the pump. Changing the contacts will just allow the pump to run again for a few more months before they arc up again.  I'll attach two links.  The first may be helpfull if you live in parts of England the second could help everyone. :whistling:  Be careful with capacitors as they can hold a charge which will spoil your weekend. A faulty capacitor can lead to sticking contacts on the relay.

 

 

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If it's anything like my bladder then it's had it..

I had a similar water problem everywhere I rented. Low pressure everywhere and in many places frequent outages. The outages allow contaminants into leaky pipes which is why after an outage in most pla

I dealt with small water supply aboard a yacht for many years... My wife and I used about 5 gallons per day - almost all for dish washing, cooking and drinking. And we were super careful about water u

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1 hour ago, jimeve said:

Unbelievable, Having just read your post I went and taped the switch and low and behold the pump stopped. He he.

Now, waiting if the pump will start when the psi drops. Are they easy to replace? And how do you set it for the correct psi?

@Mike J I owe you a cold one.

Cheers.

Not so difficult.  If your switch is like mine it will have two adjustment screws, one for low pressure (start pump) and one for the high pressure (stop pump).    Your local hardware store will almost certainly have a new switch.  You either take the old one end or take a picture with your phone.

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An update, having waited for 3 weeks for a plumber who kept letting me down, I decided to get another who came immediacy.He replaced the switch but again wouldn't switch off at all.

So he cleaned the old one and installed it worked for an hour then stopped working and won't start now at all. 

I'm wondering if the bloater tank needs some work or the actual pump needs replacing?

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7 hours ago, jimeve said:

An update, having waited for 3 weeks for a plumber who kept letting me down, I decided to get another who came immediacy.He replaced the switch but again wouldn't switch off at all.

So he cleaned the old one and installed it worked for an hour then stopped working and won't start now at all. 

I'm wondering if the bloater tank needs some work or the actual pump needs replacing?

Hmm.. sounds like plumber doesn't understand the electrical part.  He can directly put power to the pump and see if it works... changing switches and have it work and then not work sounds like a switch setting issue.  

But bigger question.... did he check the charge of the tank to ensure the bladder is good? Example how to do below"

  1. https://www.guthriefrey.com/waterlogged-pressure-tanks.htm
  2.  
  3. Captive Air / Bladder tanks:
    Drain the water pressure by turning off the electric to the pump and opening the drain faucet on the tank. Any filtration equipment (softener, iron filter, reverse osmosis system, other) should be by-passed or turned off, as draining the tank may cause sediment in the pipes or tank to be disturbed. Once the water has been drained from the tank, the air pressure should be checked using a tire gauge. If possible, the air pressure should be adjusted to approximately 30 psi. In some cases, the tank is internally faulty, which can necessitate that the tank be replaced. If the air can be adjusted, the system should be re-activated and flushed until the water is clear. Once clear, all filtration equipment can be put back "in service".
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15 hours ago, jimeve said:

An update, having waited for 3 weeks for a plumber who kept letting me down, I decided to get another who came immediacy.He replaced the switch but again wouldn't switch off at all.

So he cleaned the old one and installed it worked for an hour then stopped working and won't start now at all. 

I'm wondering if the bloater tank needs some work or the actual pump needs replacing?

Question Jim - was the pump "short cycling" prior to never turning off.  Short cycling is where the pump turn on, runs for a couple seconds (or even less), turns off, then turns right back on again.  On,off,on,off all the while the faucet is running.  If yes, then it would indicate some or most of the air has been lost from the tank.

If it is not the switch and it never stops, it sounds like all air was lost in the tank.  In the post from Joey (item 3) I would add that you should remove the valve stem check valve.  Probably on the top of the tank, looks like the valve stem on your car or bike tire.  This will allow air back into the tank and the water will drain out faster.  You may also want to replace the check valve in case it was leaking.

Found an image - the little doohickey is not a check valve is it called a valve core.

image.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Mike J said:

Question Jim - was the pump "short cycling" prior to never turning off.  Short cycling is where the pump turn on, runs for a couple seconds (or even less), turns off, then turns right back on again.  On,off,on,off all the while the faucet is running.  If yes, then it would indicate some or most of the air has been lost from the tank.

No Mike, it would keep running non-stop until I turned  it off at the breaker.

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10 hours ago, Joey G said:

But bigger question.... did he check the charge of the tank to ensure the bladder is good? Example how to do below"

He did not, Just changed the switch. I told him about the bladder tank and may need air pressure, but got that blank look.

Got another plumber coming this morning, I will make sure he checks the bloater tank. If he has the tools!

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1 hour ago, jimeve said:

He did not, Just changed the switch. I told him about the bladder tank and may need air pressure, but got that blank look.

Got another plumber coming this morning, I will make sure he checks the bloater tank. If he has the tools!

Plumber turned up, checked the tank, that's okay, put a new switch on, only goes up to 32 psi can't reach 40. they say the pump needs to be bigger, this one is only half HP needs to be 1 HP.

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18 hours ago, jimeve said:

Plumber turned up, checked the tank, that's okay, put a new switch on, only goes up to 32 psi can't reach 40. they say the pump needs to be bigger, this one is only half HP needs to be 1 HP.

If that fixes it great... but you said you had the system for 6 years, broke a pipe and that initiated the problem.... and now they say the pump is too small (???).... I'd ask what could have changed after 6 years of working right?  Pump size, tank size, desired run time, and draw distance all factor together in the system.  I'd at least ask them to explain why you need a new size pump now and also ensure all the components match the desired output... lest you invest even more into replacing components until t's fixed. 

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3 hours ago, Joey G said:

If that fixes it great... but you said you had the system for 6 years, broke a pipe and that initiated the problem.... and now they say the pump is too small (???).... I'd ask what could have changed after 6 years of working right?  Pump size, tank size, desired run time, and draw distance all factor together in the system.  I'd at least ask them to explain why you need a new size pump now and also ensure all the components match the desired output... lest you invest even more into replacing components until t's fixed. 

That was my thought also, the pump worked for 6 years before now all of a sudden it's too small!

His explanation. Cheap pump made in China lol. The one at ground level is a good one made in USA. That one was installed in 2010 ish that pumps water from the well to the water tank on the third floor.

 

 

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