Building a Bungalow with Zero CHB`s.

[fred]

Brace both sides by screwing 3 pieces of C-Perlin horizontally..
Mix 12 sand or lime or Palay if available to one sack of cement and a small amount abount of water..Almost a dry mix.. Pour it in and gently tamper down with rebar and 2X2 timber.
 

[fred]

30 minutes ago, Dave Hounddriver said:

Have you had it up long enough to see how it holds up to water?  The manufacturers say it is waterproof but such was not my experience.  I used it on my ceiling and a leaking pipe above it proved to me that it would need additional waterproofing if used on an exterior wall.  But maybe the area you are in will not get wet . . large roof overhang for example.

 

22 minutes ago, Old55 said:

Fred, this is a question not a criticism. Would it be helpful to add insulation inside your walls to keep the heat manageable? 

 

18 minutes ago, hk blues said:

Yep.  I'm on the fence about it as I've seen it hold up well and also not so well.  There different types and applications and I often wonder if contractors really know which works best in different applications. 

 

 

All good questions..
When I show you a bit later how the bungalow is designed you will soon realize why the walls will never get wet or be exposed to heat from the sun. So no need for insulation IMO.

Untreated hardiflex is porous and will degrade over time untreated.. No question about it.
If however it is treated correctly with an oil based primer and then 2/3 coats of weather/waterproof elastomeric paint, then that new exterior skin will protect the hardiflex from moisture 100%.

Edited March 15, 2021 by fred

[fred]

Also I almost forgot to mention.. In the bathroom/shower area we actually removed the hardiflex from 50% of the room.
They came off undamaged and could be used again..
The finish that you can see after the forms are removed are impeccably flat!!  We will tile these areas but they would be very easy to render with a cement finish if that is what you prefer..
If I were to do that on an exterior wall I would mix a cement waterproofer (Like Sahara) into the render mix.
Personally ,I'm leaving the Hardiflex form on because all I have to do then is tape the joins,prepare and 2 coats of paint.. Job done.
That's the main reason I'm sick to death of CHB`s.. So many processes before a paintable surface is ready. Also so labour intensive etc etc.
Sorry CHB`s... You gotta go.

Edited March 15, 2021 by fred

[fred]

Running out of pics now so to bring you up to where we are now and I`ll cut to the chase..
The balcony runs on the front elevation, the side and the back and its about 2.5 meters wide.
Today has been a pretty hot day and we do not even require fans inside..
All in all it`s been a pretty successful experiment.. So successful we aim to build 3 more when we can afford it after this covid B.S.
I`ll post some pics of interior when I have some..
Cheers!

[graham59]

Thanks Fred. Fascinating stuff.  

Quick question:

I'm currently getting quotes for a small exterior staircase (only about 10 feet long) up to my little roof terrace on the shack.

Some guys doing metal fabrication work next door have quoted me p5000 plus materials for a welded steel staircase... and fair enough. Their work does look good. 

Really, I fancied a staircase made from hardwood though (with one stringer screwed to the wall)...that I could make myself. Probably a lot cheaper too. The stairs will sit under the roof overhang. Here's a pic, with the temporary steps up:  Thoughts ?

.

 

[fred]

27 minutes ago, graham59 said:

Thanks Fred. Fascinating stuff.  

Quick question:

I'm currently getting quotes for a small exterior staircase (only about 10 feet long) up to my little roof terrace on the shack.

Some guys doing metal fabrication work next door have quoted me p5000 plus materials for a welded steel staircase... and fair enough. Their work does look good. 

Really, I fancied a staircase made from hardwood though (with one stringer screwed to the wall)...that I could make myself. Probably a lot cheaper too. The stairs will sit under the roof overhang. Here's a pic, with the temporary steps up:  Thoughts ?

.

 

I`m no expert on staircases Graham.. 
I suppose though the older we get the more we need to consider the angle and pitch of a stair case..From looking at that picture,if the bottom step was next to that big post and straight up like the existing ladder it might be a bit of a struggle to get up there for my poor legs!!
If it was me,I`d probably ask for a quote for a spiral staircase as the pitch will be far less.


 

Edited March 15, 2021 by fred

[graham59]

Thanks Fred. I had considered a spiral, but probably a bit pricey for my budget.  :( 

Actually the stairs can sit at a shallower angle than the temporary ones pictured... as there is another yard/metre or so of pathway at the back of the building... to rest the (now longer) lower part of the steps on. Sorry, I should have included that in the picture. 

[fred]

53 minutes ago, graham59 said:

Thanks Fred. I had considered a spiral, but probably a bit pricey for my budget.  :( 

Actually the stairs can sit at a shallower angle than the temporary ones pictured... as there is another yard/metre or so of pathway at the back of the building... to rest the (now longer) lower part of the steps on. Sorry, I should have included that in the picture. 

 

Well as long as you can get the timber you want at the right price it may be worth tackling it yourself..Would be a fun project if you have the tools.
Where we are Timber has gone through the roof plus it`s another 1k to coat it all with anti termite Solignum.
"You would need a pretty substantial lump of timber for the wall stringer as the fixings can only really be somewhere on the bottom of the post and the top of that beam.. Drilling a couple of 12mm holes through the wood and the concrete and whacking in some 12mm dowels would hold it alright!
Getting a good fixing on Hollow blocks though can be a challenge I've heard.. lol
I`d be interested in how much the timber quote is Graham.. Show us how you get on!
 

Edited March 15, 2021 by fred

[Guy F.]

How can you be sure the hardwood floor won't eventually be consumed by termites? Install a network of perforated pipes underneath so solignum can be periodically injected? Use termite-resistant wood such as Molave?

Edited March 15, 2021 by Guy F.

[Viking]

On 3/12/2021 at 6:47 PM, fred said:

The other huge aim to this build is a roof design that promotes passive cooling and with minimal or even zero insulation.
Most houses here are a good example of how I would build a solar oven.


 

Can you tell us more about how you designed the roof? From my experience that is where most of the heat inside is coming from, so it is important to solve that in a good way.