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Building a Bungalow with Zero CHB`s.


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6 minutes ago, Viking said:

I have been thinking of installing a wind turbine on our roof but I am not sure how effective they are on hot rising air only, since there is very little wind on our location. There is also models that are powered by solarpanels and maybe that would be a better choice. :89:

 I believe member @sonjack2847 has one maybe he can enlighten you a little :tiphat:

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9 hours ago, fred said:

Yes heat rises,but in a sealed roof it will have nowhere else to go until it finds a vent..
Ridge vents and high level Turbine vents are also a good solution but you must have good air replacement ventilation at eves level otherwise, pretty much useless. 
When I look at the small eves vents in most local houses here it`s laughable really.
9 times out of ten they are blocked with spiders webs and dust etc.

 

I would if it was too warm inside the living space,but it just isn't.

That is true, but it also mean that it will only be the least hotttest air that vents out, the hottest air will be trapped at the top under the roof. But if you say this work good enough I belive you.

I agree 100% in what you say about the size of the  eves vents, ours are done with a 5mm drill :571c66d400c8c_1(103):

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Fred ,What’s the difference in price doing it this way compared to building with blocks plus would there be more noises coming through the hallow walls compared to the solid walls too.

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On 3/17/2021 at 3:25 AM, stevewool said:

Fred ,What’s the difference in price doing it this way compared to building with blocks plus would there be more noises coming through the hallow walls compared to the solid walls too.

I could be wrong, but I think Fred filled the space between the hardiflex with a concrete mixture so they would not be hollow? 

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On 3/15/2021 at 12:52 PM, fred said:

Brace both sides by screwing 3 pieces of C-Perlin horizontally..
Mix 12 sand or lime or Palay if available to one sack of cement and a small amount abount of water..Almost a dry mix.. Pour it in and gently tamper down with rebar and 2X2 timber.
 

I'm not really sure what Fred is doing with this method. He does end up with an insect proof wall (why add organic palay to the mix?). You do end up with a nice surfaces and no hollows for rodents, snakes, etc. I'd have to check with an engineer re if its structurally superior to block and rebar, and to what degree.... but it does seem more costly re materials and possibly labor. 

I'm a bit confused since I  thought the purpose of metal stud wall and hardiflex was to avoid all the concrete fill. Just curious about the reasoning here. No offense intended, here.

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7 minutes ago, manofthecoldland said:

I  thought the purpose of metal stud wall and hardiflex was to avoid all the concrete fill.

Such was my original thought, but I saw the pics where the hollow space was being filled.  Good move.  A large bolo would slice right through plain hardiflex so no security in that.  My next thought would be:  how is the plumbing and wiring installed?  A guess would be before the concrete filler is added.

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2 hours ago, manofthecoldland said:

I'm not really sure what Fred is doing with this method. He does end up with an insect proof wall (why add organic palay to the mix?). You do end up with a nice surfaces and no hollows for rodents, snakes, etc. I'd have to check with an engineer re if its structurally superior to block and rebar, and to what degree.... but it does seem more costly re materials and possibly labor. 

I'm a bit confused since I  thought the purpose of metal stud wall and hardiflex was to avoid all the concrete fill. Just curious about the reasoning here. No offense intended, here.

 

2 hours ago, Dave Hounddriver said:

Such was my original thought, but I saw the pics where the hollow space was being filled.  Good move.  A large bolo would slice right through plain hardiflex so no security in that.  My next thought would be:  how is the plumbing and wiring installed?  A guess would be before the concrete filler is added.

Is there any difference to the method Fred is using to the system of shuttering and infilling with concrete, save he is left with a finished surface?  I'm not suggesting it's a bad choice, quite the opposite, but isn't it expensive and more time consuming?

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I used a contractor to build a house with similar methods. Tubes for wiring and plumbing are put in place before the concrete is poured.

It is better than CHB for keeping noise out and maintaining structural integrity in an earthquake.

After it was finished termites and ants still found their ways in, but I was able to find and seal the ants' paths. Termites can still get in and I've gradually been replacing everything termites can consume with what they can't.

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13 hours ago, manofthecoldland said:

He does end up with an insect proof wall (why add organic palay to the mix?).

 We used crushed lime and Cement..Same stuff they make CHB`s from.
I mentioned Palay as I know someone here that has some very large concrete domes build with that organic aggregate.
He has been building them since we arrived in Bohol well over a decade ago.
If we were living near a rice mill giving away free Palay,I would definitely utilize it.

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