Building a Home in Davao

[Tommy T.]

7 minutes ago, Mike J said:

Lots of good advice on the subject of pipes.  Also make sure you are on site to do a pressure test prior to the pipes be covered with cement!  A properly doped joint should never start leaking.  What can happen is if a crack developed in the hollow block wall, they often follow the motor joints lines and the crack will open a bit.  If that happens it can crack a pipe buried in the wall. 

On a somewhat related subject.  I have run across electric lines that were laid in a wall slot and then mortared over.  Make sure they put conduit in the wall instead, that way you can run new wire inside the conduit if ever required in the future.  

Great suggestions, Mike, thanks!

I will make it a point to have them pressure test the lines and mention the possibility of wall cracking causing plumbing issues to see if there is anything they can do to minimize that. I never thought of that possibility... thanks!

I was assuming the electrical wiring would be chased through conduits...but I will make sure about that too.

I have a Word file open all the time on this laptop now so I can add all these ideas into my notes...

Edited September 27, 2019 by Tommy T.

[Tommy T.]

12 hours ago, hk blues said:

That is what we wanted but they couldn't narrow it down to anything closer than somewhere after our meter and the end of the run!  It would effectively require replumbing the whole house.  

HK... My view was always to find the problem and fix it right away. On the yacht, not repairing a leak can mean loss of valuable drinking water or corrosion or contamination of things. I was always a bit anal about this. I would just be concerned that your leak(s) might cause damage in the walls, wiring, floors? If it were me, I would pursue it to try to isolate the cause... Can you shut off portions of the water supply inside the house or do you just have a single shut-off for the whole building? If so, there are some ways you can narrow down the source of your problem.

And you might check that none of your toilets is running a bit slowly and virtually unnoticeable?

Again... just offering some ideas here...

[Huggybearman]

51 minutes ago, Tommy T. said:

I have a Word file open all the time on this laptop now so I can add all these ideas into my notes...

Me too. Lots of good advice here. Better to anticipate issues/problems in advance rather than try and resolve them afterwards!

The old adage comes to mind, 'an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure'...........

[intrepid]

A little more on the PPR pipe for those not familiar.  PPR is amazingly flexible.  You can bend very easily without kinking.  However you still need fittings because if bent to a 90* it would king.  Also being so flexible it will not brake.  Once a joint is fused together it will never leak.  I tested a few pieces after fused and cut the joint apart and when it is melted/fused together the pipe and joint become one.  Looking at the cut you cannot tell where the pipe or fitting begin or end.  As I said it is not used in the states but seems to be the industry standard in many places around the world.  The only downside I see to it is when working in tight quarters you need a helper to to hold the fusion tool.  It gets hot, up to 300*.  But you need to work fast.  Both the fitting and pipe are heated at the same time by pushing them onto each side of the tool and then quickly assembling them.  Also worth noting is unlike PVC glued joints where you turn or twist the fitting while assembling, PPR must not be turned or twisted, rather pushed straight on.

Wiring mentioned again and another thought came to mind.  Before pulling wires make sure they also pull a ground.  You will most panel boxes here do not have a ground strip/plate like we are used to.  Not a problem, just make sure you buy a box large enough to add a ground strip.  If need be, a smaller second box can be added to route all you grounds through.

Tommy, I'll be sending you a PM later

 

[Mike J]

22 hours ago, intrepid said:

A little more on the PPR pipe for those not familiar.  PPR is amazingly flexible.

That sound a lot like PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) piping.  Our house in the USA was about 60 years old and had the original iron galvanized pipe.  When I did the major remodel, I had the entire house redone with PEX.  PEX is flexible, never corrodes, and can swell in case of extreme heat or cold without bursting.  It will basically last forever unless you accidently drive a nail through a pipe.  Great stuff, but takes special fittings and tools to install properly.  They used two different types of PEX, the main supply lines were much thicker and more rigid, but they could bend slightly.  The lines going to individual fixture were smaller and had lots of flex.  In most cases they were able to pull the old pipe and push the new PEX through the same holes.

[intrepid]

5 minutes ago, Mike J said:

That sound a lot like PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) piping.  Our house in the USA was about 60 years old and had the original iron galvanized pipe.  When I did the major remodel, I had the entire house redone with PEX.  PEX is flexible, never corrodes, and can swell in case of extreme heat or cold without bursting.  It will basically last forever unless you accidently drive a nail through a pipe.  Great stuff, but takes special fittings and tools to install properly.  They used two different types of PEX, the main supply lines were much thicker and more rigid, but they could bend slightly.  The lines going to individual fixture were smaller and had lots of flex.  In most cases they were able to pull the old pipe and push the new PEX through the same holes.

Sounds from my description similar I know but nothing like PEX.  I do like PEX but not available here.  As I mentioned before because of the heat fusion the joints become as one.  There are no glues, seals, or clamps needed.  Just the Very high temp fusion tool.  Here is a link;      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0RzO4zn_2c

 

 

[hk blues]

Even with the normal blue piping. i've experienced them making joints with flame rather than solvent.  I'm not convinced it's better for that type of material but it's certainly cheaper!  

[Tommy T.]

It's been almost four weeks since construction began. I visited the site again yesterday and things are moving right along...

The main ground beams have been poured and finished. The vertical columns have all been done except one - which was completed yesterday. So they are all up to maybe two meters high?

The weather finally turned so there is rain just about every night, but it is late and does not affect the build. It is actually good since it continues the watering of the new cement works.

They have already laid the foundation hollow blocks that form the outside walls.

Next week they expect to pour the second floor slabs...

Last week they brought in five loads of crushed rock to improve the access road so it is not slimy, slippery when wet and also to minimize the big rock bumps...

They are happy to see me when I bring the Cokes, chicharon and Tanduay! I actually was cheered yesterday!

I always make it a point to express my appreciation for their hard work and thank them. I really am pleased with the progress and quality of construction...

Edited October 6, 2019 by Tommy T.

[Gary D]

They used to pour the pillars like that here but apparently the fashion has changed and the pillars in our area are now flat with the walls. So I think they now build up the walls leaving a gap for the pillar which they pour once the gap is shuttered flat with the wall. Should be starting our place next week once I've rejigged the plans I drew in the UK. It turns out the our lot is not square, narrower at the back by 1.5m. Bounary creep is not unusual and I'd messured it a couple of years ago.

[Tommy T.]

15 minutes ago, Gary D said:

Should be starting our place next week once I've rejigged the plans I drew in the UK.

Hi Gary... Please keep us (or at least me) updated on your home build progress? I am interested to see how it goes with others here... Thanks!